Lady lupine (Lupinus villosus) is the common pink-flowered lupine of Florida. It occurs throughout the northern tiers of counties to about the latitude of Citrus County, with a slightly disjunct population reported in Polk County. It also occurs in states to our north - from Louisiana to the west and North Carolina to our northeast. This is a species found only in extremely well-drained sandy habitats, most commonly in open sandhills.
Like most of our lupines, lady lupine is a short-lived perennial. Most plants do not flower their first year, flower sparingly the second, and then reach their full potential in the third when they bloom profusely. Very few, if any, plants survive into a fourth season.
Lady lupine can be distinguished from sky-blue lupine (Lupinus diffusus) in areas where they both occur by their extremely tomentose (hairy) leaves. This characteristic is what gives it its Latin name. Both species have a pair of small leaves (correctly termed stipules) at the base of their main leaves. These stipules are not present in the extremely rare scrub lupine (L. aridorum) and Gulf coast lupine (L. westianus). The leaves of lady lupine also are normally held more erect than those of sky-blue lupine.
A mature lady lupine can attain a height of about 1 foot and a width more than twice this. Many flowering stems emerge from the center of the plant. These may stand 2 feet high. The flowers are soft pink in hue with a dark red spot on the upright petal above the lip. Flowering begins at the base of the stalk and proceeds upward. Because of this, plants remain in flower for many weeks - beginning in early spring and lasting into April.
Lupines are exceedingly beautiful wildflowers, but our Florida species (with the exception of perennial lupine, L. perennis) are nearly impossible in cultivation. Most seedlings die early in their development when kept in pots and most that survive die soon after replanting. For this reason, they have never been offered for sale by any commercial grower I am aware of in Florida. My own experiences with these species have been extremely "spotty." Plants that have survived to flower have been rare and they die after 3 years without producing new progeny through reseeding.
I understand that some success has recently been acheived by growing the seeds in grow (peat) pots and transplanting them directly to approapriate sites without disrupting their roots. If you chance upon seed and are interested in attempting this species, try this method. Just be sure that the site you choose to plant in has absolute perfect (pure sand) drainage and plenty of sun. Seedlings may also require a specific micorrhizal fungus to thrive, so planting them in areas where lupines have not previously grown may prove difficult.
From my experiences, lupines in Florida are best appreciated where they are growing in nature and admired for their unique character without coveting them for the home landscape.
Hello Craig,
ReplyDeleteLupines, like most legumes, grow best when their roots are inoculated by symbiotic nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Each genus of legumes requires a specific species or strain of nitrogen-fixing bacteria.
Inoculum for lupines is cheaply available ($1.50) from Prairie Moon Nursery (see www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/inoculum/). I've never tried it myself because I haven't found a source of native lupine seeds. However, since the cost is minimal, I would definitely try it if I was sowing seeds of native lupines.
Note that the nitrogen-fixing bacteria are completely different from mycorrhizal fungi, which is an altogether different topic.
I thank you for this information, Rufino, and I will try it again in the future. I did purchase some a number of years ago to experiment with various lupines I had seed from - L. diffusus, L. aridorum (I still use the old taxonomy...), and L. villosus, and I had absolutely similar results as if I had not used anything. Lupines still stump me. I have tried growing them in scrub soil where natire lupines are growing too. Some day, I will crack the problem more effectively as I love these plants...
ReplyDeleteI find that the best thing to do is to scarify the seed coat first after harvesting the seed then just before the onset of rainy season, I plant the seed just barely below the surface of the sand. If you can just barely see the seed coat peeking through the surface of the sand after planting the seed, it'll be alright. After the first good rain, it should germinate within 7 to 10 days (maybe even sooner). At least this is my experience in Lake Placid, Florida. One more thing, rabbits and rodents love to feed on Lupine seedling when they are still in their cotyledon stage just after germination. Once the cotyledons have spent all of their stored food energy and the seedlings are equipped with just adult leaves, it should safer from animal pests.
ReplyDeleteDanny Green
Thanks for your input, Daniel!
ReplyDeleteVery useful thank you. This plant is growing opposite my house on an empty lot and was wondering if i could grow in my very sandy,almost impossible, without spending a lot of money, back garden, which im nearly giving up on. The information on your blog was a great help thank you!
ReplyDeleteYour best chance is to wait until the plants go to seed - the silvery pods are fully ripe and starting to split. Collect a small number of the seed (so the plants still have plenty left to maintain their existing population) and scatter them in a suitable/sandy place - push each seed no more than 1/4 inch below the surface, and then let nature take its course. Lupine seed has a very long viability and I have had seen take more than 1 year to germinate. Don't expect seedlings right away. Eventually, you will see that they are sprouting. Leave them alone and chances are that some will make it. I have never had luck any other way. Good luck
ReplyDeleteYour best chance is to wait until the plants go to seed - the silvery pods are fully ripe and starting to split. Collect a small number of the seed (so the plants still have plenty left to maintain their existing population) and scatter them in a suitable/sandy place - push each seed no more than 1/4 inch below the surface, and then let nature take its course. Lupine seed has a very long viability and I have had seen take more than 1 year to germinate. Don't expect seedlings right away. Eventually, you will see that they are sprouting. Leave them alone and chances are that some will make it. I have never had luck any other way. Good luck
ReplyDeleteOne of these wildflowers is in bloom close to my home in, Pensacola, Fl. It is beautiful. It is the only one I have ever seen and I'm just happy to see it each day when I walk My dog. I think it is cool that they are so difficult to cultivate.
ReplyDeleteThere are half a dozen of these on an empty lot right of way where I walk my dog...we had a cool multiday rainstorm so I thought I'd dig one up and replant...but no such luck, the taproot is long...the flowers have turned into fuzzies, wondering if it will produce seeds in it's new location, my yard.
ReplyDeleteHello Craig,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the detailed information about Lupinus villosus. I live in South Carolina in an area consisting of a primordial sand bank (100% sand). I was bicycling along a country road when I spied a HUGE patch of the lupins in full bloom. They were quite striking. I have since been monitoring them, and just picked a grocery bag of seed pods, but took less than 5% of the population. I have already established Lupinus perrinus or purple lupine (second attempt, first year growth) and Thermopsis villosa or Carolina lupine (second year - beautiful yellow "lupin" blooms), which I am not sure is a true lupine (based upon its nomenclature).
I plan to plant the villosus seed in the fall along with some of my Thermopsis seed. In the meantime, I will return to the wild lupine patch and dig up a a couple of buckets of sandy soil (and not disturb the existing plants). I will screen the soil and use it as inoculum for the lupin seeds. How will I plant the seed? I have learned that peat pots are a great way to start lupins (and other wild flowers), BUT plants that have deep taproots tend to grow out of the bottle into the garden soil. Fortunately, I transplanted the Perrinus VERY early in their growth and managed to preserve their taproots. I had a 90% success rate for transplantation! :) I have a LOT of Lupinus perrinus growing in my yard (a happy problem). This year I plan to repeat my use of peat pots (and potting soil & inoculum), BUT I will place the peat pots in the ground at their final destination. This should give the seedlings a head start with the local plants, which are quite vigorous.
Finally, I have a question regarding my extra Lupinus villosus seeds. How can I share my extra seeds? I am hoping to establish a couple of more villosus patches in my area to spread out the local population (1/3 of the patch sits along a county road easement. My county is notorious for mowing and destroying everything along its easement.). What would be the best way to barter my seeds? I am always seeking more native plants for my yard, especially those suited for the Carolina Low Country.
I am in Aiken Co, SC and think I have this on my property. I would love to connect with someone who knows more about these native lupines!
Delete2022 Taylor county some beautiful flowers while turkey hunting
ReplyDelete